Discovering Clos Thou: A Hidden Gem in Jurançon

Welcome to Clos Thou in Jurancon

After a sunrise breakfast of local cheeses and stone fruits at Clos Mirabel, we set off on a dreamy four-kilometer walk through the French countryside. The road was narrow and winding, lined with sleepy vineyards, bleating donkeys, crowing roosters, and homes nestled in the folds of the hills. Our destination? Clos Thou, a family-owned domaine that has quietly carried on the traditions of Jurançon winemaking for over a century. The patriarch, now 91, remembers the old stone press, which has been at the estate since he was just a baby.

The old wine press at Clos Thou

Understanding Jurançon Winemaking

Clos Thou, like many producers in Jurançon—a region tucked just outside Pau in the shadow of the snow-capped Pyrenees—focuses primarily on Petite Manseng. This grape flourishes in the region’s limestone and clay soils, supported by a “pudding” of loose rocks that promotes exceptional drainage. The vineyards sit on steep southeast-facing slopes and are spaced to encourage airflow—an essential detail for passerillage, the process of drying grapes on the vine. This process helps concentrate sugars and preserve acidity, creating wines of remarkable depth and character.

In addition to Petite Manseng, Clos Thou also cultivates Gros Manseng, Courbu, and Camaralet. These grapes add spicy, herbal tones and help balance the searing natural acidity of Manseng. The unique blend of these varietals contributes to the nuanced flavor profiles that are a hallmark of Jurançon wines.

The Tasting Experience

During our tasting, the younger vintages of Petite Manseng revealed vibrant notes of orange blossom, pineapple, and tropical fruit. Despite residual sugars hovering around 50g/l—a third of what you’d find in a Mosel Kabinett Riesling—there was an exhilarating crispness in each sip. These wines are both opulent and balanced. They are fermented and aged in 400-liter, third-year French oak barrels, which impart subtle texture without overwhelming the fruit.

1998 Clos Thou Petite Manseng Jurancon

Then came a rare treat: a bottle of 1998 Petite Manseng—deep ochre in color, aromatically complex, and profoundly expressive. The nose unveiled layers of caramel, orange peel, clove, mango, saffron, cherry blossom, and marzipan. Despite its age, the acidity remained electric, cutting through the rich texture and 14% alcohol with a brisk, clean attack.

Perfect Pairings

We paired this stunning wine with a board of regional goat and sheep cheeses. The selection included a local blue cheese whose sharpness danced beautifully against the wine’s honeyed depth. The combination of flavors created a memorable tasting experience that showcased the unique characteristics of both the wine and the cheeses.

This exquisite wine echoes the elegance of a well-aged Château d’Yquem—but with a wild, Pyrenean soul and a far gentler price tag. The experience at Clos Thou is truly a celebration of place and craftsmanship.

The Legacy of Clos Thou

Endless thanks to the team at Clos Thou for sharing their history, land, and a time capsule of flavor. It is places like this that remind us of the importance of preserving traditions while embracing the future of winemaking.

Visiting Clos Thou is not just about tasting great wine; it's about connecting with the rich cultural heritage of the Jurançon region. So, when you find yourself in this picturesque corner of France, make sure to indulge in the exquisite offerings at Clos Thou. You won't be disappointed.