I roamed through a stunning morning down a beautiful road west of Salem, Oregon. I wound past modern housing developments that gave way to historical charm. Around the corner from the Spring Valley Community Center, originally a school for the farm children of Zena—standing proudly since 1907—I passed a llama farm. A mile or so beyond the esteemed Lingua Franca Winery in the Eola-Amity AVA lies Seven Springs Vineyard. Here, 80 acres of rolling hills boast volcanic basalt, fertile Jory clay, and something intangible yet unmistakable: love for the terroir.
The Heritage of Seven Springs
Seven Springs was established as wine country in the early 1980s by the MacDonald family. Today, it is stewarded by Evening Land Vineyards, a sibling of Rajat Parr’s Domaine de la Cote in the Santa Rita Hills AVA near Lompoc. Together, they create world-class Pinot Noir. In this ethereal property, the vineyards flourish in terroir blanketed in marine sedimentary soils, ancient diatomaceous shale beds, and deeper layers of clay mixed with coastal fogs.
With biodynamic practices, Evening Land nurtures Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Chardonnay grapes on this sacred land, cloistered from the hum and buzz of the outside world. The Kalapuya Tribe once cultivated this land, growing camas and wapato—plants with culinary and medicinal significance that echo the harmony of this terroir.
The Harp and the Accord
Seven Springs’ connection to the land mirrors the Eola-Amity Hills’ rich tapestry of history and natural phenomena. The hills around Seven Springs loop and dip, alternately shielding or welcoming the winds from the Oregon Coast Range. These breezes stream through the Van Duzer Corridor, one of Oregon’s newest AVA. The region's name derives from the Aeolian harp—a mystical instrument that sings harmonic tunes simply by being touched by the wind. Meanwhile, Amity owes its name to an amicable resolution between two rival communities in the 1840s, which resulted in establishing a shared school.
Evening Land captures this sense of harmony, history, and natural music, producing wines that are both quiet and eloquent. Their wines whisper aromas and flavors shaped by the intricate and evolving terroir of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. My host and head winemaker, John Faulkner, continues this legacy of artistry.
The Philosophy of Terroir-Driven Wine
Evening Land proudly embraces the philosophy of “terroir-driven” wine. This commitment is no surprise, as Rajat Parr is one of the world’s most esteemed winemakers. He applies his culinary finesse to the unique terroir of the main property, Domaine de la Côte, in the Santa Rita Hills AVA. At Seven Springs, winemaker John Faulkner digs deeper into this concept. He believes the vineyard’s 80 acres may harbor up to 100 variations of soil, each subtly influencing the character of the grapes. His pursuit of precision aligns with biodynamic principles, refining both farming and winemaking.
Microclimate and Electromagnetic Geology
Enter Pedro Parra, a.k.a. Dr. Terroir. This Chilean consultant is revered for his groundbreaking work in geology-driven viticulture within Burgundy. Most focus on soil composition, but Parra looks deeper—literally—at the rocks beneath. He believes that geology holds the key to understanding a wine’s texture and mouthfeel.
Parra employs advanced techniques like electromagnetic scanners—tools more commonly used in mining—to map the soil’s electrical conductivity. This reveals the clay content, which often predicts a wine’s density and plushness. Additionally, he digs trenches across vineyards, inspecting the rock layers and evaluating their impact. For example, harder rocks yield wines that are linear and austere, while decomposed rocks lead to rounder, more generous wines.
At Seven Springs, John and his team are excavating nearly 100 trenches. This exploration unveils a complex geological tapestry of sand, clay, iron, and volcanic rocks. These insights promise an evolution in vineyard care and winemaking artistry, the benefits of which may fully reveal themselves in the years to come.
A Flight of Pinot Noir
John graciously guided me through a flight of Evening Land’s Pinot Noirs: Seven Springs, La Source, and Summum. He likened their complexity to language. Seven Springs is straightforward, akin to English; La Source is elevated, resembling French; and Summum is the pinnacle, resembling Latin—both elusive and profound.
Seven Springs and La Source
Seven Springs feels like an old friend. It is approachable, generous, and possesses an air of simplicity that belies its sophistication. Its aromas are earthy and vivid, led by Oregon Waldoberry, interwoven with red plum and the soft crinkle of autumn leaves. On the palate, it bursts with bright acidity balanced against fine-grained tannins, finishing with a touch of spice reminiscent of star anise.
In contrast, La Source is a poetic sibling. Its elegance lies in its restraint. The nose features dried roses, ripe black cherries, and delicate hints of forest floor. The palate unfolds in waves with flavors of bramble, Olallieberry tartness, and a soft yet persistent minerality. The structure is precise, with a polished texture akin to lace. Together, these two wines are sultry and playful, exuding joy that resonates like a musical score.
The Summum Experience
The 2022 Summum Pinot Noir, poured via Coravin on site, felt enigmatic at first. Its whispers were subdued yet hinted at something extraordinary. This realization came when I opened the bottle at home, allowing it to evolve overnight. By morning, those whispers had transformed into melodies, revealing a bouquet of farmers market raspberries, violets, autumn leaves, and Earl Grey bergamot. On the palate, it became symphonic, with bay leaves, dusty lavender, smoked sea salt, and freshly bloomed roses creating a meditative harmony.
Aged for nine months in Ermitage barrique—which features lighter toasting levels—this unique French oak barrel enhances the wine's fruit character. For me, the Summum exudes light, ethereal notes of vanilla and clove. Though I enjoy comparing wines, the Summum's uniqueness is captivating. It reminds me of Vosne-Romanee, particularly Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee 1er cru "Les Beaux Monts," a tiny vineyard producing similar character but at a significant price premium.
With Gratitude
The older I get, the more I want to learn. I trust that the 2022 Summum will elevate my understanding of wine even further. I left Evening Land feeling grateful for new insights and my senses awakened to the intricate links between terroir, aroma, flavor, and music.
I am excited to share these exquisite wines in a formal tasting with my clients who will be new to Evening Land. The lyrics from Enya’s song “Evening Falls” resonate with the wines of Evening Land—anchored in a sense of place yet transcending time and space.
“Even though I leave,
Will I go on believing, that this time is real?
Am I lost in this feeling?
Like a child passing through
Never knowing the reason.
I am home, I know the way. I am home, feeling oh, so far away.”
But home, like the wines of Evening Land, exists both here and far away.
For an unforgettable journey into the wines of Evening Land and other amazing wines for wine-tasting events in Lake Oswego and Portland, guided by sensory storytelling and a sommelier’s touch, contact Michael Perman at C’EST WHAT? Wine and Sensory. www.cestwhatwine.com
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